JoelNothman.com

I thought I should give the world a few updates, now that I have the time and internet connection to do so. Firstly and most importantly, I have a phone number in Israel, where I’ve been since the 25th of May, thanks to Brucey’s generosity (it was her number previously):

+972 547 981 703

Secondly, my main goals in coming to Israel for 7-or-so weeks were to: (a) see friends and family, such as my cousin Harry and his wife of nearly four years, and my brother’s fiancée, both women I had not met before; (b) travel a little and see different sights, along with an Israel different from the one I saw in 2002; and (c) find somewhere to do some focussed traditional Jewish study, to improve my skills and knowledge in the area and have had some experience.

Choosing where to study for four weeks was the main challenge of last week. I had decided on Machon Meir, when I convinced myself to reconsider Yeshivat Hamivtar, whose main problem for me was that it wasn’t in Jerusalem. I ended up visiting the yeshiva on Sunday, in Efrat, meaning that this would be my first visit to Gush Etzion (a major Jewish settlement block in the West Bank), and my first time catching a tramp, i.e. hitching a ride. For my first day, the tramps came pretty slowly, but it was still an interesting and fun experience, although frustrating while waiting in the sun.

The tramping idea is an interesting one. Despite the security threats that have been realised in attacks in previous years, people willingly open their cars to people travelling to and from Jerusalem and within the settlements of Gush Etzion (as well as other areas). Why? Because they can? Because it’s good for the environment to car-pool? Because the transportation system is poor? Because (mostly) their passengers are Jewish, and so this is a “mitzvah”? Because, at least in the Gush, most travellers are religious and so generally somewhat trustworthy? Whatever it is, one learns quickly to stand on the roadside till a car rolls down its window and offers a destination. They might even offer a boot for your large bags.

When one arrives in Efrat, they notice the big gates and guard-boxes that guard its entrance to cars, and fences that block off the neighbourhood from intruders on foot. Yeshivat Hamivtar, just outside and up a hill from the southern gate of Efrat, too has large yellow gates, and a guard box; some of its students carry guns just in case a security situation were to arise. But around, there is mostly quiet. An atmosphere of isolation among hills and long roads. Upon them, there is always a little traffic. Beside them herds of cattle may be finding finer pastures to graze upon, or young Arab boys riding donkeys, presumably with some goods or merchandise in carry.

The only brick building in the Yeshiva, as far as I can tell, is the one that houses the Beit Hamidrash (study hall) and dining hall. Everything else is caravans (or temporary-looking buildings). Currently I have half a caravan to myself, which is certainly a lot more spacious accommodation than Machon Meir’s packed and messy dorms (often with trouser-stealing quacks as roommates, it seems). Nonetheless the accoustics are not great if the Rabbi lecturing has a loud voice. A true hilltop yeshiva.

The body of students at the yeshiva is a lot smaller and less diverse than at Machon Meir. There, where there is a significant Hebrew programme as well as English, one finds students from various backgrounds. Here it is largely American, with a handful of outliers. I encountered a fellow Sydneysider—even one that used to go to shul with me (Danny Simons)—when I arrived at the Bet Midrash.

Nonetheless, the students at Hamivtar are generally university graduates, and the level of study is a little more academic and does not particularly shy from the critical. It also includes quite a full day of learning, which if I’m trying to gather skills in only four weeks might be a good thing- to be in a focussed environment. I hope at least in comparison to Machon Meir, I will be able to appreciate these things. So educationally I think Hamivtar is a good place for me, although its physical and social environments are comparatively lacking.

But, with the rolling hills instead of the centre of Jerusalem as the backdrop, I am going to need to work to avoid some level of boredom. (Also note that one can spend a whole day without seeing more than a couple of women.) The students here are few and yet maybe need a bit of warming to. And yet it seems at the moment that I’ll be staying in Hamivtar for the next four weeks, with the occasional trip to Jerusalem. The ride is not very long, but it can be hard to predict; one can’t pop out to Jerusalem for lunch, and even if they could, they could not pop back quite as quickly.

So hopefully as I get used to this new and very different environment to what I have experienced in Israel before, I will enjoy it and learn much from it.